My website stays up to date on litters, puppies, and/or adults that I have available. Look around and explore the site. It will have everything you need to know.
November 23, 2022
Pet price is a low price for those just looking to buy a companion.
Breeder pricing is high priced based off of the genetic make-up of the individual puppy.
It's not cheap to raise and breed dogs. There's the birthing, a property big enough for the dogs to roam/play, licenses, dog toys, DNA testing, vet bills, marketing, paperwork, dog/puppy food, lots of puppy pads, etc.
I research what other breeders in the area cost, and set my prices according to what the prices in the market are, as well as how much am I having to spend to buy new stock for my program.
If you think my prices are too high but want a "purebred" than I would advise you to look: a.) local shelters; sometimes have purebreds that owners got rid of or b.) a poodle rescue group. You are not going to find a GOOD reputable breeder with cheap pricing.
Breeder Prices are so high because I am very strict on those that want to purchase a puppy from me as a breeder. I make sure that the puppy has a clean health test result, will be the right size for breeding, etc. My prices are set higher for breeders because certain traits are rarer than others. So you are charged based on those rare (hard to get)traits. I don't want to allow just any puppy be a breeder. Only certain puppies meet the standards to be a breeder. I also want to make sure that the "breeder" understand the investment, time, effort, etc. I do not want to encourage anyone to be a "backyard" breeder or that being a breeder is a "get rich quick" scheme, because it's NOT! I want to make sure that a "breeder" isn't just trying to make money off puppies, that they are breeding for the right reasons.
You are just buying the dog/puppy as a pet. So, to me even though a female is more desired than a male does not make a female worth more money. Also just because a specific color is more desired than the others it shouldn't cost you more. If one puppy is smaller than the rest of the litter does not make it right for me to market up the price because it's more desirable or in other breeders term "tiny toy" or "teacup" or that the smaller puppy requires "special housing". Breeders that charge more based on color, gender, and size as pet only are only doing it to make more money off of what is more desirable for a customer. For example most people want females, so if I charge $500 more for a female than a male because you want a female more you will pay that extra price. However the males and the females can be the same color, build, weight, etc. from the same litter. But because people want females more they charge more just because they can. I do not believe this is right as you are only looking to buy the puppy as a pet not looking to breed them so gender, color, or size should not be a deciding factor on the price of a puppy being brought as a pet. Factors that go into pet based pricing should be based on the cost of raise the litter, dna and health testing, vet bills for mom, dad, and puppies, food, puppy pads, etc. Not based on a desired color, gender, or size.
I charge based on color for a breeder because I genetic test each and every puppy so a breeder will know based off that information what colors can and can not be thrown off. Most breeders that sell there puppies as breeders only have the mom and dad tested leaving you to guess what the puppy may or may not have based off of mom and dads test results and the color of the puppy. I take that guess work out and guarantee what colors they can and can't throw off. Me being a breeder looking to create certain colors; I hold knowing the puppies genetic make up very high(color coat genetics). This is why I charge based on the genetic make up of a puppy.
I'll give an example: There are four puppies in a litter. Mom carries brown, parti, and sable. Dad has no brown, no parti, and tan(instead of sable). Only one puppy carries brown, no parti, and tan. Another puppy has no brown, parti and tan. Another one has no brown, no parti, and sable. And the last one has no brown, parti, and sable.
If I am a breeder looking to make brown and parti colors. Which of those dogs would I chose or would I have to pick two or none at all? From my eyes two of those have what I am looking for so. I would ether have to choose one or the other or both or search again. Without knowing the test results I would have no idea who would be a carrier for brown, sable, or tan. The parti gene can be a bit more oblivious but not always.
If you are buying these same puppies as a pet then why does a brown carrier, parti carrier, or sable/tan carrier matter? It doesn't to a pet owner. That is why color is not a factor on pet prices. You may like a brown parti color over a non brown parti but you are just buying based on color as a pet. It’s just the color you like.
Where a breeder is looking to buy based on color to add to there program to produce a certain color. Ex. Brown and Tan phantom. A phantom in general is hard to create, let alone a brindle or merle. This is why I charge more for these rare hard to get colors when being purchased as a breeder vs. a pet. Again pet owners may prefer a certain color but you are not looking to continue that color, only looking to buy a pet/friend. Breeders are looking to make certain colors thus I charge more for rarer colors(genetic make-up).
Puppies that are purchased as a pet have spay/neuter contacts. Spay/neuter contract states that you will have the puppy "fixed" by a certain age(6-8 months). Fixed meaning not able to have puppies rather it be a male or female.
If found that the puppy/dog has not been fixed and did have a litter of puppies; I will take you to court along with my contacts/evidences of said litter(s), get the dog and/or puppies, and sue you for not doing what you were supposed to.
My puppies come with there dew-claw removed, tails clipped(at 3-5 days old by a licensed vet), DNA and health tested(EMBARK), registration paperwork rather is be CKC or AKC and CKC, de-wormed(panacur every two weeks(2, 4, 6, & 8 weeks), first set of shots(Parvovirus shot given at 6 weeks and if time permits then DHPP; which is distemper (D), hepatitis/adenovirus (H), parvovirus (P), and parainfluenza (P) at 8 weeks; given by a vet), fecal check (done by a vet), Vet examination (completed by a vet a few days after birth and at the time of shots), micro chipped(homeagain; done by a vet). I also start them on house, kennel, puppy pad training, manners, and socializing. They are also put on heartworm prevention(normally revolution or heartgard, sometimes advantage multi or interceptor plus based on the puppies weight) and flea prevention(normally revolution or advantage split, sometimes advantage multi; depending on size of puppies) at the time of there first set of shots. At 7 weeks, I also shave there face, paws, and butt area(this gets them used to the grooming necessary in the future and also helps me know if a puppy will be silver/silver beige). There nails are also trimmed as needed threw out the 8 weeks they are with me. My puppies also come with a 1 year health guarantee where if found to have a life threaten disease from the time of pick-up till one year you can get a replacement puppy. They also come with a bag of current puppy food, a folder with there DNA and health test, registration paperwork, shot and de-worming schedule, micro-chip information, information on how to kennel train and potty train, why get your dog "fixed", why they dig/chew, why get them vaccination, about internal and external parasites(worms), what kind of things are dangerous for dogs, like trees, flowers, foods, etc. Puppies also come with a collar. I do not provide a blanket/toy that smells like mom, as before they go home I have them used to be away from mom. If I put a blanket/toy with mom before sending it home with you a couple of things would likely happen; a.) another puppy would pee on it by accident; the blanket/toy would need to stay in for at less a few days to fully get her scent. b.) holey by ether mom or the puppies chewing on the blanket/toy; the blanket/toy would need to stay in for a few days to really get the scent c.)it is hard to get mom to use/play with one particular blanket/toy when there are so many options available. I also do not provide a blanket/toy because before most people come to pick up there puppy they are already brought all of those things for them. On occasion I will provide a blanket/toy but it will not smell like mom it will be brand new.
Most puppies are able to go home at 8 weeks old and not a day sooner. Smaller puppies sometimes have a longer take home date if they need extra time. The take home number of weeks for smaller puppies are determined by the puppy.
AKC limited registration means that the dog is registered but no litters produced by that dog are eligible for registration.
Chapter 3, Section 4A of the AKC’s Rules Applying to Registration and Discipline states the following: “
No offspring of a dog for which has been granted is eligible for registration. Each registration certificate for such dog shall carry notice of the limitation, and the limitation shall continue, regardless of any change of ownership, unless and until the owner(s) of the litter at birth shall apply to AKC for removal of the limitation.”
A dog registered with an AKC Limited Registration shall be ineligible to be entered in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. It is eligible, however, to be entered in any other licensed or member event. These events include: Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Field Trials, Hunting Tests, Herding, Lure Coursing, Earthdog, Fast Cat, CAT, Scentwork, Junior Showmanship, Trick Dog and CGC.
Limited Registration is determined by the litter owner(s). The litter owner(s) check the Limited box on the AKC Dog Registration Application.
Limited Registration certificates are white with an orange border; the Full Registration certificate is white with a purple border.
Limited Registration can be changed to Full Registration only by the litter owner(s). The litter owner(s) will need to obtain the Application to Revoke Limited Status. That form will then need to be completed and sent to our Raleigh address with the processing fee. After processing, we will send a Full Registration certificate to the dog’s owner.
Limited Registration helps breeders protect their breeding programs. If breeders do not want puppies used for breeding purposes, they can request the option for those puppies.
CKC limited registration is:
I normally have 3-4 litters per year. I am a small breeder so I do not have puppies ALL the time. I normally have a litter every few months but sometimes there heat cycles can overlap and I ended up with them back to back.
I only deliver puppies. NO SHIPPING!! Please see my page that says prices for other services. For more in depth details.
No, I only breed Toy Poodles.
No. There is no such thing as a "Tiny toy" or "Teacup". The sizes are as followed: Toy, Miniature, and Standard. "Tiny Toy" and "Teacup" are marketing terms used by breeders to explain there higher pricing and make them seem different. They are smaller than the breeds standards and shouldn't be bred. Breeding smaller dogs comes with a greater risk of issues during birth. There is always a runt in a litter, that is smaller than everyone else, however it is still a Toy and does not hold more or less value then the rest of the litter.
The Poodle Club of America, Inc. says "The terms such as "Royal Standard", "Tea Cup Toy", or "Tiny Toy Poodle" are marketing gimmicks, used to promote the sale of animals that are dramatically over or under the norm in size."
No. I do not have any miniature size adults. I have two adults that are mixed between a Miniature and a Toy but they are Toys. They are the height of a Toy but the weight of a Miniature this is from breeders mixing a Toy and a Miniature together. I did not know at the time I brought them this was the case, never the less, I occasional have a Toy/Miniature mix but they are still considered a Toy.
It really depends on the week. But at less once a week, often times it’s multiple times a week.
Puppies pictures are taken once a week, normally on their week-aversary.
I take new pictures of adults/parents as needed, normally every 3 months.
A lot does into figuring out a puppies adult weight. There is the genetic screening that gives a projected adult weight, most of the time I find it to not be accurate. There is the weight of mom and dad that can give you an est. adult weight, however some puppies can be way smaller or bigger than the parents. The amount of food you fed them and type of food can make them weight more/less. There is no way of knowing exactly how much the puppy will weight as an adult. I do my best to give an estimated adult weight but I can not guarantee a weight.
They have skipped over multiple litters. They have been offered multiple litter opportunities but have chosen to not pick from the litters. As long as they keep in contact with me they are allowed to stay on the list.