Frequently Asked Questions

NO but there is TWO YOUNG ADULTS AVAILABLE! ONE MALE READY TO GO NOW AND ONE FEMALE FOR DEPOSIT WILL BE READY TO GO AT THE SAME TIME AS HER PUPPIES!

My website stays up to date on litters, puppies, and/or adults that I have available. Look around and explore the site. It will have everything you need to know. 

October 1, 2023

Pet price is a low price for those just looking to buy a companion. 

Breeder pricing is high priced based off of the genetic make-up of the individual puppy. 

It's not cheap to raise and breed dogs. There's the birthing, a property big enough for the dogs to roam/play, licenses, dog toys, blankets, kennels, DNA, health, and coat color testing(EMBARK and AKC DNA tested), registration paper work cost, OFA cost, annual eye exam cost, vet bills, marketing, contacts paperwork, educational paperwork,  dog/puppy food and treats, lots of puppy pads, etc. 

I research what other breeders in the area cost, and set my prices according to what the prices in the market are, as well as how much am I having to spend to buy new stock for my program. I do a lot of health testing on the parents and the puppies before going home. I am insuring that you are getting a HIGH QUAILTY puppy/dog! Insuring that the puppy/dog is high quality comes at a price/cost. 

If you think my prices are too high but want a "purebred" poodle than I would advise you to look: a.) local shelters; sometimes have purebreds that owners got rid of or b.) a poodle rescue group. Also keep in mind when buying from your local shelter or rescue, most of them have NOT been health tested in any kind of way. They have had there shots and exam but not tested for genetic diseases, eye conditions, hips, elbows, patella, etc.  You are not going to find a GOOD reputable breeder with cheap pricing. And I am not against ANY one who wants to adopt instead. Please adopt if that is what your prefer! Everyone likes different things! These places are cheaper in prices because they get help from grants and donations which allows them to keep there prices low. I do not get these things to help with cost. 

Just to give a run down of cost. 

AKC DNA test is $50 per dog

AKC DNA Certificate is $10 per dog 

EMBARK DNA test is $159 to test just one dog or $139 per dog for 2-10 dogs(normal litter size)

License cost $50 a year for CKC $150 per year locally

OFA cost $15 per Eye Certification Registry (CAER) , $15 per DNA Based Test Result, $15 per Patellar Luxation and $45 per hip dysplasia test or $50 for hip and elbow dysplasia. *This is just the cost to put it into there data base. See Annual Eye Exam cost, EMBARK DNA test, Annual vet visits, and X-ray cost.   

Annual vet visit is $200 per dog. Check-up, patella recheck, heartworm test, fecal test, DAPP, Rabies, Bordetella, and Leptospira

An X-ray cost $160-$500 

Puppy pads are $30 for 100 (at less once per month) 

Reusable pee pads cost $30 for one(I need/have at less 6 of  3 different sizes so I need smaller ones and larger ones in total that means 24)[24 x $30 = $720] Even though they are reusable they do have to be replaced every 6 months to a year due to wear and tear! 

This website cost $180 per year to keep up, plus the website protection which is $35 per years and google search which is $100 a year; for a grand total of $315 

It cost $15 a month for my printer and ink

Puppy vet visit cost $40 for claws and tail per puppy(Litter size of 3 would cost $120); $120 for shots, fecal, micro-chip, and check up per puppy(Litter size of 3 would cost $360)

Puppy collars cost $10 for a newborn set of 20 then $12 for a set of two regular collars small enough to fit them(puppy go home with the regular collar placed on them) then $10 per collar if the puppy grows out of the smaller collar 

Kennel, Blankets, and toy cost $100 per month

C-section cost $600-$900 not including if they are spayed if spayed then it's $900-$1,200

Puppy blankets cost $26 for a set of 12 blankets(1 blanket is given per puppy for take home)

Puppy toys cost $20 for a set(1 set of toys is given per puppy for take home)

Puppy treats cost $30 per bag

Tarps to protect my floors cost $35 for a pack of 3

Puppy play pen cost $70(I need at less 2 one for inside and one for outside)[If I have more than one litter at a time then I need many!]

Puppy leash cost $20 per leash

Bottles for puppies cost $15 per bottle

Bottle nipple replacements cost $5 

Formula puppy food cost $30 

Gloves cost $30(to assist in birthing) 

Knives cost $30(if needed to cut the sack of the puppy and the umbilical cord)

Heating pad or lamp to keep puppies warm cost $40 

My labor which is a 24/7 job at just $7.25 an hour that's $174 a day(moms give birth at 2 a.m. and sometimes they need to go out at 1a.m. for the bathroom)[I also work with puppies on potty training, what's okay and not okay, etc.]  

Annual eye exams cost $110 per dog 

Dog/Puppy food and treats cost $400 per month

New AKC dogs cost me $3,000-$8,000 per dog/puppy* My last AKC dog cost me $3,000, the one before that also cost $3,000. And one puppy only had mom and dad health tested but no OFA screening and no micro chip. The other one had NO parent health testing AT ALL but was micro chipped! Both had there shots and were dewormed; was confirmed to be worm free, and tails/dew claw removed. They did not come with anything but there registration and shot records. This can be proved by looking at there OFA links. When siblings or parents are tested it shows up on the OFA site.*

Teeth cleaning cost $500-$900 per dog

Baby teeth removal cost $500-$900 per dog

Heartworm and flea meds cost $250 per dog per year and $21 per puppy per month 

Heartworm treatment for heartworm positive dogs cost $200 for one month of treatment 

ER visit cost $100-$200 just for the visit not including any x-rays, meds needed, or over night stays everything including $400-$1,500.

Dewormer cost $40 per bottle every few months  

Pee cleaner cost $45 per gallon

Nature Gnaws Bully sticks cost $90 for a 2lb bag(2-3 bags per month)

Miscellaneous surgery cost $300-$10,000 per dog. This includes exploratory surgeries, growth removals, broken limps, torn ACLs, etc

Spay/Neuter cost $150 if threw Terrebonne Parish Animal Control(LA/SPCA) for dogs 7 and younger or $220 for dogs 7 and older or $300 threw my local vet for dogs 7 and younger or $500 for dogs 7 and older

CBC Blood test cost $100 per dog

Property and house cost $1,300 per month

Listing on CKC site is $50 per year

Listing on AKC site is $120 per year

Listing on puppy find is $200 per year

Listing in newspaper is $128 per month(28 days) for ONLY 4 lines!

Water cost $80 per month(bathing and fresh clean water is necessary for the health of the dogs)

Electric cost $300 per month(a/c or warm place to be is necessary)

Phone cost $210(If I did not have a phone then you could not contact me)

Microsoft Office 365 cost $110 per year(Need for contracts)

Antivirus cost $150 per year(need in order to update this website and also keep viruses off my computer)

Home internet cost $80 per month

*Some of these things are what people would say I would have any way even if I were not a breeder. Which is true. However I would not have nearly as many animals to care for if I was not a breeder. So I would not be spending as much money a month/per dog to pay for them. I would not use as much water, puppy pads, dog food, electric, etc. if I wasn't caring for so many animals. I also would not need a bigger yard(enough space) if I did not have as many dogs. Do you know how often your local shelter needs donations of food, blankets, bottles, etc. because they don't have the funds to get them? As I stated above raising and caring for animals is NOT CHEAP. My prices are like they are to help offset SOME of my cost. If you add all the money I put out compared to what I make is ONLY a fraction of the expense. If my expenses(dog food prices, vet visits, x-ray cost, etc.) go up too much then I have to raise the price of puppies as well, it's called Cost-Push inflation. I try my best to keep my prices low without losing too much money.* 

~The little bit of money that I charge for puppies barely covers MY COST TO RAISE THEM AND THERE PARENTS! I am NOT trying to get RICH selling puppies/dogs! I am ONLY trying to better the breed I LOVE! If I was trying to get RICH then I would be charging 5k-10k per puppy! On just a PET ONLY PRICE! Which I easily could charge, I CHOOSE NOT TO! SO BE GRATEFUL NOT HATEFUL! ~  

AKC dogs go threw extensive health test, DNA testing, and OFA certifications. AKC also charges to register a litter of puppies. All of this costs extra money. 

CKC dogs just go threw regular health testing.

Also if you don't know anything about the two registries. Here is another difference. AKC ONLY registers dogs that come from there KNOWN linage. They will not just register a dog because it "appears" to be that breed or that a DNA testing lab said that it was. They also only register PUREBRED dogs.

Where CKC has been known to register a dog just because it looks like the breed the owner is claiming it to be with two signatures and a few photos. Some CKC dogs have come from AKC lines or another type registry. Some CKC dogs also come from a long pedigree where others you will find have just have been registered meaning 2 or 3 generations. With AKC you will NEVER find short pedigrees. AKC pedigrees go back over 5 generations. CKC will also register "designers" dogs such as a goldendoodle. Where AKC does not! 

Another thing that AKC does is requires a DNA sample(#) on all studs who produce over a certain number of litters. Which is an added layer of line purity in the linage. CKC does not require this.  

AKC stands for American kennel club and has been around for over 150 years

CKC stands for Continental Kennel Club and has only been around for only 20 years 

Breeder Prices are so high because I am very strict on those that want to purchase a puppy from me as a breeder. I make sure that the puppy has a clean health test result, will be the right size for breeding, etc. Because I genetically test each and every puppy rather it be allowed to be a breeder or not, I know exactly what colors they can produce. This is why for a breeder I charge for coat colors/patterns. As you are buying a certain color puppy to produce that color/add that to your program.  I don't want to allow just any puppy be a breeder. Only certain puppies meet the standards to be a breeder. I also want to make sure that the "breeder" understand the investment, time, effort, etc. I do not want to encourage anyone to be a "backyard" breeder or that being a breeder is a "get rich quick" scheme, because it's NOT! I want to make sure that a "breeder" isn't just trying to make money off puppies, that they are breeding for the right reasons.  I DO NOT DISCRIMINATE, I just want to make sure that you're going to do right! It is MY responsibility as a breeder to insure that when I am selling a puppy/dog as a breeder that you have the BEST advice and starting place, before doing so!  Breeding is an investment and if you don't have the money to even buy one then you clearly are not READY! 

Sure you can go find another breeder that will charge you less for the same color/look outwards as a breeder but have there parents been health tested? Were the parents tested and mom/dad a carrier for a health issue like PRCD? How do you know that the puppy you are getting as a breeder isn't a carrier of that as well? Do you know for sure that a puppy is a "blue" or was the breeder just calling it that and it's really a faded black(graying gene not the dilate gene)? Is the breeder calling the puppy red but it's really an apricot? What about the breeder calling the puppy a sable and it's really a grey(agouti/wolf grey)? What about calling it a Merle just because it has blue eyes or has some silvering due to the graying gene? Just because a poodle has blue eye(s) does NOT mean that it is merle! 

You are just buying the dog/puppy as a pet. So, to me even though a female is more desired than a male does not make a female worth more money. Also just because a specific color is more desired than the others it shouldn't cost you more. If one puppy is smaller than the rest of the litter does not make it right for me to market up the price because it's more desirable or in other breeders term "tiny toy" or "teacup" or that the smaller puppy requires "special housing". Breeders that charge more based on color, gender, and size as pet only are only doing it to make more money off of what is more desirable for a customer. For example most people want females, so if I charge $500 more for a female than a male because you want a female more you will pay that extra price. However the males and the females can be the same color, build, weight, etc. from the same litter. But because people want females more they charge more just because they can. I do not believe this is right as you are only looking to buy the puppy as a pet not looking to breed them so gender, color, or size should not be a deciding factor on the price of a puppy being brought as a pet. Factors that go into pet based pricing should be based on the cost of raising the litter, dna and health testing, vet bills for mom, dad, and puppies, food, puppy pads, etc. Not based on a more desirer able color, gender, or size.     

I charge based on color for a breeder because I genetic test each and every puppy so a breeder will know based off that information what colors can and can not be thrown off. Most breeders that sell there puppies as breeders only have the mom and dad tested leaving you to guess what the puppy may or may not have based off of mom and dads test results and the color of the puppy. I take that guess work out and guarantee what colors they can and can't throw off. Me being a breeder looking to create certain colors; I hold knowing the puppies genetic make up very high(color coat genetics). I do not charge based off of gender or size for them because rather the puppy is big/small or male/female, they can still produce the same things based off  of there genetic make-up. This is why I charge based on the genetic make up of a puppy. I am also health testing them and will know rather they are carriers or not for certain health issues. Without testing then the breeder would not know if the puppy they are buying as a breeder would have any health issues. Such as being a carrier of  PRCD or DM. If a puppy is a carrier it does NOT mean they can not be bred but it does mean they have to be bred more CAREFULLY. 

I'll give an example: There are four puppies in a litter. Mom carries brown, parti, and sable. Dad has no brown, no parti, and tan(instead of sable). Only one puppy carries brown, no parti, and tan. Another puppy has no brown, parti and tan. Another one has no brown, no parti, and sable. And the last one has no brown, parti, and sable. *Also if both mom and dad are KBky then there is a 25% that the puppy is KBKB, a 50% chance that the puppy is KBky, and a 25% chance that the puppy is kyky. Without the test there would be no way of knowing for sure what the puppy K the puppy would be. KBKB covers up "special" colors like phantom, brindle, sable, and agouti/wolf grey. KBky sometimes means brindle if not brindle it can be bred to a dog that isn't KBKB to produce "special" colors. kyky means they are those "special" colors.   My testing will give you those answers to what you are looking for to add to your program!*  

If I am a breeder looking to make brown and parti colors. Which of those dogs would I chose or would I have to pick two or none at all? From my eyes two of those have what I am looking for so. I would ether have to choose one or the other or both or search again. Without knowing the test results I would have no idea who would be a carrier for brown, sable, or tan.  Without the test I would be picking a puppy based off of the outward appearance and hoping for the best. The parti gene can be a bit more oblivious but not always.

If you are buying these same puppies as a pet then why does a brown carrier, parti carrier, or sable/tan carrier matter? It doesn't to a pet owner. That is why color is not a factor on pet prices. You may like a brown parti color over a non brown parti but you are just buying based on color as a pet. It’s just the color you like. You are not looking to create or continue that color. But for a breeder they know this puppy is a carrier of brown so if I bred it to a brown or another brown carrier then I can make brown puppies. 

Doing your research on genetics(Health and colors) is super important when it comes to making breeding decisions! For example never breeding a Merle to a Merle or that just because you have a brown dog does not mean that you can make browns(two browns can make a brown but you can not ALWAYS make a browns if breeding to a black or "red"). Never breeding a carrier to a carrier is another HUGE important factor before putting two dogs together. When purchasing a breeder from me you will KNOW everything you will need to know to insure that you are getting a GREAT starter or addition to your program!

Puppies that are purchased as a pet have spay/neuter contacts. Spay/neuter contract states that you will have the puppy "fixed" by a certain age(6-9 months). Fixed meaning not able to have puppies rather it be a male or female. When purchasing an animal form your local shelter and even rescue groups they are already fixed before being allowed to go home. If I could get my puppies fixed before going home myself I would! However no vet around here will do it if the dog is under 6 months. They SPCA will do it earlier but the dog has to be at less 2lb and be 3 months old. When puppies go home they are normally under 2lb and only 2 months old!

If found that the puppy/dog has not been fixed and did have a litter of puppies; I will take you to court along with my contacts/evidences of said litter(s), get the dog and/or puppies, and sue you for not doing what you were supposed to.  

See this link to learn why spay/neuter is important. https://www.louisianaspca.org/clinic/services/spay-neuter-questions/

Any animal not used here for breeding is fixed. This includes cats and dogs that are just pets(were never used for breeding but have AKC paperwork; I own other purebred dogs that I do not bred), and retired dogs. 

My puppies come with there dew-claw removed, tails clipped(at 3-5 days old by a licensed vet), ENS (Early Neurological Stimulation) from day 3 to day 16, DNA, health, and coat color tested(EMBARK), registration paperwork rather is be CKC or AKC and CKC, de-wormed(panacur every two weeks(2, 4, 6, & 8 weeks), first shot Parvovirus given at 6 weeks with fecal check (done by a vet) and if time permits then DHPP; which is distemper (D), hepatitis/adenovirus (H), parvovirus (P), and parainfluenza (P) at 8 weeks; given by a vet. If puppy stays longer than 8 weeks then they will have another set of shots and fecal check done at 12 weeks which will include Bordetella and DHPP+4L; Distemper, hepatitis/adenovirus, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and Leptospira vaccines. If puppy stays passed 12 weeks then at 16 weeks they will have there shots completed for the year and last fecal check which will include Rabies, Bordetella, and DHPP+4L; Distemper, hepatitis/adenovirus, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and Leptospira vaccine. Vet examination (completed by a vet a few days after birth and at the time of all shots), micro chipped(homeagain; done by a vet). Provisional patella(knee) results(done by a vet). I also start them on house, kennel, puppy pad training, manners, and socializing. If puppy stays here pass 16 weeks then puppy will be FULLY house and kennel trained. Manners and socializing will still be a work in progress. They are also put on heartworm prevention(normally revolution or heartgard, sometimes advantage multi green 3-9lbs based on the puppies weight) and flea prevention(normally revolution, sometimes advantage multi green 3-9lbs or nexgard; depending on size of puppies) at the time of there first vet visit(6 weeks). If puppy is still here at 10 weeks then another dose of heartworm and flea prevention will be administered(advantage multi; green 3-9lbs). As long as the puppy stays here each month it will receive a monthly heartworm and flea prevention. At 7 weeks, I also shave there face, paws, and butt area(this gets them used to the grooming necessary in the future and also helps me know if a puppy will be silver/silver beige). If they stay here longer than 8 weeks then they are shaved as needed(at my discretion). There nails are also trimmed as needed threw out the 8 weeks they are with me. My puppies also come with a 2 year health guarantee where if found to have a life threaten disease from the time of pick-up till two years you can get a replacement puppy. They also come with a bag of current puppy food, a folder with there DNA, health, and coat color test, registration paperwork, shot and de-worming schedule, micro-chip information, information on how to kennel train and potty train, why get your dog "fixed"(if purchasing with limited registration; if purchasing fully registration this paper is excluded) , why they dig/chew, why get them vaccinated, a vaccination recommended schedule, your puppies growth chart form birth till 8 weeks(includes weight, height, and length), important information on your puppies current schedule and training, about internal and external parasites(worms), a warning about hypoglycemia in toy breeds, what kind of things are dangerous for dogs, like trees, flowers, foods, etc. Puppies also come with a collar(that fits), blanket, leash, treats, and toy. AKC puppies will also have an AKC DNA#. 

If a puppy is here by 6 months old then the puppy WILL be spayed/neutered and receive a price cut and be considered an adult! There will be NO price cuts before the age of 6 months or getting spayed/neutered! 

My adults come with there dew-claw removed(some adults still have them; ones that were not produced here), tails clipped, DNA, health, and coat color tested(EMBARK), CKC or AKC and CKC registered with pedigree, micro chipped(homeagain).  Yearly check-up and shots completed which includes Rabies, Bordetella, DHPP+4L; Distemper, hepatitis/adenovirus, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and Leptospira with yearly fecal check, and yearly patella check.  House and/or kennel trained(some are ONLY kennel trained). On heartworm prevention and flea prevention(advantage multi green 3-9lbs or teal 9-20lbs). Used to being groomed and groomed as needed.  A 2 year health guarantee where if found to have a life threaten disease from the time of pick-up till two years you can get a replacement. They also come with a bag of current food, a folder with there DNA, health, and coat color test, registration paperwork and pedigree, all shot and vet records, micro-chip information, information on why they dig/chew, why get them vaccinated, about internal and external parasites(worms), what kind of things are dangerous for dogs, like trees, flowers, foods, etc. They will also come with a collar(that fits), name tag, rabies tag, blanket, and toy. AKC registered dogs/adults will also have an AKC DNA#, certificate, and DNA analyses paper. AKC registered dogs/adults will also have OFA certifications which can include prcd, hip/elbow, patella, Osteochondrodysplasia, and/or eyes.   

Most of my puppies are able to go home at 8 weeks old and not a day sooner. Smaller puppies sometimes have a longer take home date if they need extra time. The take home number of weeks for smaller puppies are determined by the puppy. Puppies are NOT allowed to go home at 6 weeks!

State law here is 8 weeks!

AKC limited registration means that the dog is registered but no litters produced by that dog are eligible for registration.

Chapter 3, Section 4A of the AKC’s Rules Applying to Registration and Discipline states the following: “

No offspring of a dog for which has been granted is eligible for registration. Each registration certificate for such dog shall carry notice of the limitation, and the limitation shall continue, regardless of any change of ownership, unless and until the owner(s) of the litter at birth shall apply to AKC for removal of the limitation.”

A dog registered with an AKC Limited Registration shall be ineligible to be entered in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. It is eligible, however, to be entered in any other licensed or member event. These events include: Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Field Trials, Hunting Tests, Herding, Lure Coursing, Earthdog, Fast Cat, CAT, Scentwork, Junior Showmanship, Trick Dog and CGC.

Limited Registration is determined by the litter owner(s). The litter owner(s) check the Limited box on the AKC Dog Registration Application.

Limited Registration certificates are white with an orange border; the Full Registration certificate is white with a purple border.

Limited Registration can be changed to Full Registration only by the litter owner(s). The litter owner(s) will need to obtain the Application to Revoke Limited Status. That form will then need to be completed and sent to our Raleigh address with the processing fee. After processing, we will send a Full Registration certificate to the dog’s owner.

Limited Registration helps breeders protect their breeding programs. If breeders do not want puppies used for breeding purposes, they can request the option for those puppies.

CKC limited registration is:  

1. Canines with Limited Registration status are not eligible to be listed as the sire or dam of a litter or any canine registered with CKC.
2. Breeders may determine limited registration status for any puppy they produce if they:
   • Are an active member of the Preferred Breeder’s Program, or
   • Pay the registration fee and register the puppy to themselves (the breeder) as ‘limited’ before it goes to the new owner. The new owner will then complete a transfer of ownership according to the rules.

1. Once a puppy’s registration is limited by the breeder, the limited registration status will be indicated on all official registration documents produced by CKC.
2. All other rights and privileges remain the same for canines with limited registration.
3. Only the breeder may remove the ‘limited registration’ status on puppies of litters which they registered as ‘limited’ according to CKC’s Policies and Procedures.

I normally have 3-4 litters per year. I am a small breeder so I do not have puppies ALL the time. I normally have a litter every few months but sometimes there heat cycles can overlap and I ended up with them back to back. 

I PERSONALLY deliver puppies. NO SHIPPING!! I do NOT trust other people with my puppies and I also do NOT trust putting a puppy on a plane by itself.  Please see my page that says prices. For more in depth details. 

No I only breed a single breed(Poodle). I have NO plans or intentions to breed another type of breed. 

No. There is no such thing as a "Tiny toy" or "Teacup". The sizes are as followed: Toy, Miniature, and Standard. "Tiny Toy" and "Teacup" are marketing terms used by breeders to explain there higher pricing and make them seem different. They are smaller than the breeds standards and shouldn't be bred. Breeding smaller dogs comes with a greater risk of issues during birth among many other issues. There is always a runt in a litter, that is smaller than everyone else, however it is still a Toy and does not hold more or less value then the rest of the litter. 

The Poodle Club of America, Inc. says "The terms such as "Royal Standard", "Tea Cup Toy", or "Tiny Toy Poodle" are marketing gimmicks, used to promote the sale of animals that are dramatically over or under the norm in size."

A lot does into figuring out a puppies adult weight. There is the genetic screening that gives a projected adult weight, most of the time I find it to not be accurate. There is the weight of mom and dad that can give you an est. adult weight, however some puppies can be way smaller or bigger than the parents. Genetics are weird like that. You have to remember that Mini/Toy Poodles have come from Standards so some of that gene is still in them, which can cause puppies out of the litter to be a much bigger size. It all depends on how the genes line up in each individual puppy. The amount of food you fed them and type of food can make them weight more/less. There is no way of knowing exactly how much the puppy will weight as an adult. I do my best to give an estimated adult weight but I can not guarantee a weight. 

They have skipped over multiple litters. They have been offered multiple litter opportunities but have chosen to not pick from the litters. As long as they keep in contact with me they are allowed to stay on the list. Every time they skip they are asked if they would like to be removed from the list. 

Most people I talk to are looking to buy NOW. There are only a few people who are willing to PAY to be on the wait list and wait for a few months to get the puppy/dog they desire. You are more then welcome to wait until I have puppies instead of getting on the wait list. My wait list is a PAID wait list due to, too many people putting there information down and not being serious about purchasing. It was causing me to go threw 15+ people before I would contacted one that was serious. Those who are NOT serious are the ones who will NOT put the money down up front to get on the waitlist. You do NOT have to be on my wait list to get one of my puppies. However you WILL be required to pay the same amount as a deposit to HOLD a puppy. Those already on the waitlist pick the puppy they want and do not have to pay an additional fee. I do NOT hold puppies without a deposit. You are welcomed to wait until the puppy is eight weeks old to pay in full at pick-up but I will not hold the puppy for you without a DEPOSIT! If someone puts a deposit down before you then it will go to them! Puppies are reserved on a first come first serve bases. There are too many people that will ask me to hold and then never show up or pay the deposit this is why I will NOT hold without a deposit. 

Yes, please see the pricing page. Located at the very bottom of the page is my studs available!