Frequently Asked Questions

No, ONE YOUNG MALE ADULT AVAILABLE!

My website stays up to date on litters, puppies, and/or adults that I have available. Look around and explore the site. It will have everything you need to know. 

May 8, 2025

Pet price is a low price for those just looking to buy a companion. 

Breeder pricing is high priced based off of the genetic diseases of the individual puppy. 

It's not cheap to raise and breed dogs. There's the birthing, a property big enough for the dogs to roam/play, licenses, dog toys, blankets, kennels, DNA, health, and coat color testing(EMBARK and AKC DNA tested), registration paper work cost, OFA cost, annual eye exam cost, vet bills, marketing, contacts paperwork, educational paperwork,  dog/puppy food and treats, lots of puppy pads, etc. 

I research what other breeders in the area cost, and set my prices according to what the prices in the market are, as well as how much am I having to spend to buy new stock for my program. I do a lot of health testing on the parents and the puppies before going home. I am insuring that you are getting a HIGH QUAILTY puppy/dog! Insuring that the puppy/dog is high quality comes at a price/cost. 

If you think my prices are too high but want a "purebred" poodle than I would advise you to look: a.) local shelters; sometimes have purebreds that owners got rid of or b.) a poodle rescue group. Also keep in mind when buying from your local shelter or rescue, most of them have NOT been health tested in any kind of way. They have had there shots and exam but not tested for genetic diseases, eye conditions, hips, elbows, patella, etc.  You are not going to find a GOOD reputable breeder with cheap pricing. And I am not against ANY one who wants to adopt instead. Please adopt if that is what your prefer! Everyone likes different things! These places are cheaper in prices because they get help from grants and donations which allows them to keep there prices low. I do not get these things to help with cost. 

Just to give a run down of cost. 

AKC DNA + Health  test is $136 per dog

AKC DNA Certificate is $10 per dog 

EMBARK DNA test is $159 to test just one dog or $139 per dog for 2-10 dogs(normal litter size)

License cost $50 a year for CKC $150 per year locally

OFA cost $15 per Eye Certification Registry (CAER) , $15 per DNA Based Test Result, $15 per Patellar Luxation and $45 per hip dysplasia test or $50 for hip and elbow dysplasia. *This is just the cost to put it into there data base. See Annual Eye Exam cost, EMBARK DNA test, Annual vet visits, and X-ray cost.   

Annual vet visit is $200 per dog. Check-up, patella recheck, heartworm test, fecal test, DAPP, Rabies, Bordetella, and Leptospira

An X-ray cost $160-$500 

Puppy pads are $90 for 150 (at less once per month) 

Reusable pee pads cost $30 for one(I need/have at less 6 of  3 different sizes so I need smaller ones and larger ones in total that means 24)[24 x $30 = $720] Even though they are reusable they do have to be replaced every 6 months to a year due to wear and tear! 

This website cost $180 per year to keep up, plus the website protection which is $35 per years and google search which is $100 a year; for a grand total of $315 

It cost $15 a month for my printer and ink

Puppy vet visit cost $40 for claws and tail per puppy(Litter size of 3 would cost $120); $120 for shots, fecal, micro-chip, and check up per puppy(Litter size of 3 would cost $360)

Puppy collars cost $10 for a newborn set of 20 then $12 for a set of two regular collars small enough to fit them(puppy go home with the regular collar placed on them) then $10 per collar if the puppy grows out of the smaller collar 

Kennel, Blankets, and toy cost $100 per month

C-section cost $600-$900 not including if they are spayed if spayed then it's $900-$1,200

Puppy blankets cost $26 for a set of 12 blankets(1 blanket is given per puppy for take home)

Puppy toys cost $20 for a set(1 set of toys is given per puppy for take home)

Puppy treats cost $30 per bag

Tarps to protect my floors cost $35 for a pack of 3

Puppy play pen cost $70(I need at less 2 one for inside and one for outside)[If I have more than one litter at a time then I need many!]

Puppy leash cost $20 per leash

Bottles for puppies cost $15 per bottle

Bottle nipple replacements cost $5 

Formula puppy food cost $30 

Gloves cost $30(to assist in birthing) 

Knives cost $30(if needed to cut the sack of the puppy and the umbilical cord)

Heating pad or lamp to keep puppies warm cost $40 

My labor which is a 24/7 job at just $7.25 an hour that's $174 a day(moms give birth at 2 a.m. and sometimes they need to go out at 1a.m. for the bathroom)[I also work with puppies on potty training, what's okay and not okay, etc.]  

Annual eye exams cost $110 per dog 

Dog/Puppy food and treats cost $400 per month

New AKC dogs cost me $3,000-$8,000 per dog/puppy* My last AKC dog cost me $3,000, the one before that also cost $3,000. And one puppy only had mom and dad health tested but no OFA screening and no micro chip. The other one had NO parent health testing AT ALL but was micro chipped! Both had there shots and were dewormed; was confirmed to be worm free, and tails/dew claw removed. They did not come with anything but there registration and shot records. This can be proved by looking at there OFA links. When siblings or parents are tested it shows up on the OFA site.*

Teeth cleaning cost $500-$900 per dog

Baby teeth removal cost $500-$900 per dog

Heartworm and flea meds cost $250 per dog per year and $21 per puppy per month 

Heartworm treatment for heartworm positive dogs cost $200 for one month of treatment 

ER visit cost $100-$200 just for the visit not including any x-rays, meds needed, or over night stays everything including $400-$3,500.

Dewormer cost $40 per bottle every few months  

Pee cleaner cost $45 per gallon

Nature Gnaws Bully sticks cost $90 for a 2lb bag(2-3 bags per month)

Miscellaneous surgery cost $300-$10,000 per dog. This includes exploratory surgeries, growth removals, broken limps, torn ACLs, etc

Spay/Neuter cost $150 if threw Terrebonne Parish Animal Control(LA/SPCA) for dogs 7 and younger or $220 for dogs 7 and older or $300 threw my local vet for dogs 7 and younger or $500 for dogs 7 and older

CBC Blood test cost $100 per dog

Property and house cost $1,300 per month

Listing on CKC site is $50 per year

Listing on AKC site is $120 per year

Listing on puppy find is $200 per year

Listing in newspaper is $128 per month(28 days) for ONLY 4 lines!

Water cost $80 per month(bathing and fresh clean water is necessary for the health of the dogs)

Electric cost $300 per month(a/c or warm place to be is necessary)

Phone cost $210(If I did not have a phone then you could not contact me)

Microsoft Office 365 cost $110 per year(Need for contracts)

Antivirus cost $150 per year(need in order to update this website and also keep viruses off my computer)

Home internet cost $80 per month

*Some of these things are what people would say I would have any way even if I were not a breeder. Which is true. However I would not have nearly as many animals to care for if I was not a breeder. So I would not be spending as much money a month/per dog to pay for them. I would not use as much water, puppy pads, dog food, electric, etc. if I wasn't caring for so many animals. I also would not need a bigger yard(enough space) if I did not have as many dogs. Do you know how often your local shelter needs donations of food, blankets, bottles, etc. because they don't have the funds to get them? As I stated above raising and caring for animals is NOT CHEAP. My prices are like they are to help offset SOME of my cost. If you add all the money I put out compared to what I make is ONLY a fraction of the expense. If my expenses(dog food prices, vet visits, x-ray cost, etc.) go up too much then I have to raise the price of puppies as well, it's called Cost-Push inflation. I try my best to keep my prices low without losing too much money.* 

~The little bit of money that I charge for puppies barely covers MY COST TO RAISE THEM AND THERE PARENTS! I am NOT trying to get RICH selling puppies/dogs! I am ONLY trying to better the breed I LOVE! If I was trying to get RICH then I would be charging 5k-10k per puppy, On just a PET ONLY PRICE! Which I easily could charge, I CHOOSE NOT TO! SO BE GRATEFUL NOT HATEFUL! I know many of breeder that charge more than I do and offer less then what I do! I also know many of breeders that do not even have OFA testing and charge double the price than I do!~  

AKC stands for American kennel club and has been around for over 140 years

CKC stands for Continental Kennel Club and has only been around for 33 years 

Breeder Prices are so high because I am very strict on those that want to purchase a puppy from me as a breeder. I do not want to sell to backyard breeders or puppy mills, I do not support these types of people/places. Backyard breeders and puppy mills will search for the cheapest puppy they can find to start up or add without any health testing done on parents, pups, etc. In order to stop this activity it is my job as a breeder to regulate those who buy breeders from me. So, much so that if I do not see them as potential I will get them spayed/neutered between 4-6 months old, if still here! 

You are just buying the dog/puppy as a pet. So, to me even though a female is more desired than a male does not make a female worth more money. Also just because a specific color is more desired than the others it shouldn't cost you more. If one puppy is smaller than the rest of the litter does not make it right for me to market up the price because it's more desirable or in other breeders term "tiny toy" or "teacup" or that the smaller puppy requires "special housing". Breeders that charge more based on color, gender, and size as pet only are only doing it to make more money off of what is more desirable for a customer. For example most people want females, so if I charge $500 more for a female than a male because you want a female more you will pay that extra price. However the males and the females can be the same color, build, weight, etc. from the same litter. But because people want females more they charge more just because they can. I do not believe this is right. Factors that go into pet based pricing should be based on the cost of raising the litter, dna and health testing, vet bills for mom, dad, and puppies, food, puppy pads, etc. Not based on a more desirer able color, gender, or size.     

Puppies that are purchased as a pet have spay/neuter contacts. Spay/neuter contract states that you will have the puppy "fixed" by a certain age(12 months) or owe me a FINE for breach of contract and that I will withhold ALL registration paperwork until PROOF of spay/neuter has be supplied to me! Fine is what you would have paid for breeding price! Fixed meaning not able to have puppies rather it be a male or female. When purchasing an animal form your local shelter and even rescue groups they are already fixed before being allowed to go home. If I could get my puppies fixed before going home myself I would! However no vet around here will do it if the dog is under 4 months. When puppies go home they are normally under 2lb and only 2 months old!

If found that the puppy/dog has not been fixed and did have a litter of puppies; I will take you to court along with my contacts/evidences of said litter(s), get the dog and/or puppies or you will owe a breach of contract fee IMMEDIATELY, and sue you for not doing what you were supposed to! The breach of contract fee is determined by the cost the puppy would have been as a BREEDER purchase!

See this link to learn why spay/neuter is important. https://www.louisianaspca.org/clinic/services/spay-neuter-questions/

Any animal not used here for breeding is fixed. This includes cats and dogs that are just pets(were never used for breeding but have AKC paperwork; I own other purebred dogs that I do not bred), and retired dogs. 

My puppies come with there dew-claw removed, tails clipped(at 3-5 days old by a licensed vet), ENS (Early Neurological Stimulation) from day 3 to day 16, DNA, health, and coat color tested(EMBARK and AKC health), registration paperwork rather is be CKC or AKC and CKC, de-wormed(panacur every two weeks(2, 4, 6, & 8 weeks), first shot Parvovirus given at 6 weeks with fecal check (done by a vet) and if time permits then DAPP; which is distemper (D), hepatitis/adenovirus (H), parvovirus (P), and parainfluenza (P) at 8 weeks; given by a vet. If puppy stays longer than 8 weeks then they will have another set of shots and fecal check done at 12 weeks which will include Bordetella and DAPP+4L; Distemper, hepatitis/adenovirus, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and Leptospira vaccines. If puppy stays passed 12 weeks then at 16 weeks they will have there shots completed for the year and last fecal check which will include Rabies, Bordetella, and DAPP+4L; Distemper, hepatitis/adenovirus, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and Leptospira vaccine. Vet examination (completed by a vet a few days after birth and at the time of all shots), micro chipped(homeagain; done by a vet). Provisional patella(knee) results(done by a vet). I also start them on kennel, puppy pad training, manners, and socializing. If puppy stays here pass 16 weeks then puppy will be FULLY house and kennel trained. Manners and socializing will still be a work in progress. They are also put on heartworm prevention and flea prevention(revolution at 6 weeks). If puppy is still here at 10 weeks then another dose of heartworm and flea prevention will be administered(advantage multi; green 3-9lbs). As long as the puppy stays here each month it will receive a monthly heartworm and flea prevention. At 7 weeks, I also shave there face, paws, and butt area(this gets them used to the grooming necessary in the future and also helps me know if a puppy will be silver/silver beige). If they stay here longer than 8 weeks then they are shaved as needed(at my discretion). There nails are also trimmed as needed threw out the 8 weeks they are with me. My puppies also come with a 2 year health guarantee where if found to have a life threaten disease and patella laxation from the time of pick-up till two years you can get a replacement puppy. They also come with a bag of current puppy food, a folder with there DNA, health, and coat color test, registration paperwork, shot and de-worming schedule, micro-chip information, information on how to kennel train and potty train, why get your dog "fixed"(if purchasing with limited registration; if purchasing fully registration this paper is excluded) , why they dig/chew, why get them vaccinated, a vaccination recommended schedule, your puppies growth chart form birth till 8 weeks(includes weight, height, and length), important information on your puppies current schedule and training, about internal and external parasites(worms), a warning about hypoglycemia in toy breeds, what kind of things are dangerous for dogs, like trees, flowers, foods, etc. Puppies also come with a collar(that fits), blanket, leash, treats, and toy. AKC puppies will also have an AKC DNA# and health test completed. 

If a puppy is here by 4 months old then the puppy WILL be spayed/neutered and receive a price cut, if I do not see them as something I want as a breeder here! There will be NO price cuts before getting spayed/neutered! 

My adults come with there dew-claw removed(some adults still have them; ones that were not produced here), tails clipped, DNA, health, and coat color tested(EMBARK), CKC or AKC and CKC registered with pedigree, micro chipped(homeagain).  Yearly check-up and shots completed which includes Rabies, Bordetella, DAPP+4L; Distemper, hepatitis/adenovirus, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and Leptospira with yearly fecal check, and yearly patella check.  House and/or kennel trained(some are ONLY kennel trained). On heartworm prevention and flea prevention(advantage multi green 3-9lbs or teal 9-20lbs). Used to being groomed and groomed as needed.  A 2 year health guarantee where if found to have a life threaten disease from the time of pick-up till two years you can get a replacement. They also come with a bag of current food, a folder with there DNA, health, and coat color test, registration paperwork and pedigree, all shot and vet records, micro-chip information, information on why they dig/chew, why get them vaccinated, about internal and external parasites(worms), what kind of things are dangerous for dogs, like trees, flowers, foods, etc. They will also come with a collar(that fits), name tag, rabies tag, blanket, and toy. AKC registered dogs/adults will also have an AKC DNA#, certificate, and DNA analyses paper. AKC registered dogs/adults will also have OFA certifications which can include prcd, hip/elbow, patella, Osteochondrodysplasia, and/or eyes.   

Most of my puppies are able to go home at 8 weeks old. Smaller puppies sometimes have a longer take home date if they need extra time. The take home number of weeks for smaller puppies are determined by the puppy. Puppies are NOT allowed to go home at 6 weeks!

State law here is 8 weeks!

I WILL NEVER EVER LET ANY OF MY PUPPIES GO HOME AT SIX WEEKS OLD OR EVEN SEVEN WEEKS OLD! I WILL SOMETIMES ALLOW THEM TO GO ONE OR TWO DAYS BEFORE THEY MAKE EIGHT WEEK!

AKC limited registration means that the dog is registered but no litters produced by that dog are eligible for registration.

Chapter 3, Section 4A of the AKC’s Rules Applying to Registration and Discipline states the following: “

No offspring of a dog for which has been granted is eligible for registration. Each registration certificate for such dog shall carry notice of the limitation, and the limitation shall continue, regardless of any change of ownership, unless and until the owner(s) of the litter at birth shall apply to AKC for removal of the limitation.”

A dog registered with an AKC Limited Registration shall be ineligible to be entered in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. It is eligible, however, to be entered in any other licensed or member event. These events include: Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Field Trials, Hunting Tests, Herding, Lure Coursing, Earthdog, Fast Cat, CAT, Scentwork, Junior Showmanship, Trick Dog and CGC.

Limited Registration is determined by the litter owner(s). The litter owner(s) check the Limited box on the AKC Dog Registration Application.

Limited Registration certificates are white with an orange border; the Full Registration certificate is white with a purple border.

Limited Registration can be changed to Full Registration only by the litter owner(s). The litter owner(s) will need to obtain the Application to Revoke Limited Status. That form will then need to be completed and sent to our Raleigh address with the processing fee. After processing, we will send a Full Registration certificate to the dog’s owner.

Limited Registration helps breeders protect their breeding programs. If breeders do not want puppies used for breeding purposes, they can request the option for those puppies.

CKC limited registration is:  

1. Canines with Limited Registration status are not eligible to be listed as the sire or dam of a litter or any canine registered with CKC.
2. Breeders may determine limited registration status for any puppy they produce if they:
   • Are an active member of the Preferred Breeder’s Program, or
   • Pay the registration fee and register the puppy to themselves (the breeder) as ‘limited’ before it goes to the new owner. The new owner will then complete a transfer of ownership according to the rules.

1. Once a puppy’s registration is limited by the breeder, the limited registration status will be indicated on all official registration documents produced by CKC.
2. All other rights and privileges remain the same for canines with limited registration.
3. Only the breeder may remove the ‘limited registration’ status on puppies of litters which they registered as ‘limited’ according to CKC’s Policies and Procedures.

I normally have 4-6 litters per year. I am a small breeder so I do not have puppies ALL the time. I normally have a litter every few months but sometimes there heat cycles can overlap and I ended up with them back to back; I try to avoid this. I will not continue to breed if I still have pups that are not rehomed.  

I PERSONALLY deliver puppies. Rather this means driving or flying them to you! Travel fees must be paid up front or I will not travel! NO PET TAXI SERVICES! The nearest airport to pick-up your puppy from is MSY(Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport). Please see my page that says prices. For more in depth details. 

No I only breed a single breed(Poodle). I have NO plans or intentions to breed another type of breed. 

No. There is no such thing as a "Tiny toy" or "Teacup". The sizes are as followed: Toy, Miniature, and Standard. "Tiny Toy" and "Teacup" are marketing terms used by breeders to explain there higher pricing and make them seem different. They are smaller than the breeds standards and shouldn't be bred. Breeding smaller dogs comes with a greater risk of issues during birth among many other issues. There is always a runt in a litter, that is smaller than everyone else, however it is still a Toy and does not hold more or less value then the rest of the litter. 

The Poodle Club of America, Inc. says "The terms such as "Royal Standard", "Tea Cup Toy", or "Tiny Toy Poodle" are marketing gimmicks, used to promote the sale of animals that are dramatically over or under the norm in size."

I WILL NEVER EVER CALL ANY OF MY DOGS/PUPPIES A TINY TOY OR A TEACUP!!! I WILL ALSO CALL MY DOGS THE CORRECT TERM BASED ON THERE HEIGHT NOT WEIGHT(THE CORRECT WAY OF DETERMINING SIZE)!  

ALSO ALL TOY AND MINIATURE POODLES HAVE COME FROM THE STANDARD POODLE! THEREFORE TWO TOYS CAN PRODUCE A MINIATURE OR STANDARD. AND TWO MINIATURES CAN PRODUCE A TOY OR STARNDARD FROM ANY GIVEN LITTER! JUST BECAUSE TWO TOYS ARE BRED TOGETHER DOES NOT MEAN ALL PUPPIES PRODUCED WILL BE TOYS!

A lot does into figuring out a puppies adult weight. There is the genetic screening that gives a projected adult weight. There is the weight of mom and dad that can give you an est. adult weight, however some puppies can be way smaller or bigger than the parents. Genetics are weird like that. You have to remember that Mini/Toy Poodles have come from Standards so some of that gene is still in them, which can cause puppies out of the litter to be a much bigger size. It all depends on how the genes line up in each individual puppy. The amount of food you fed them and type of food can make them weight more/less. There is no way of knowing exactly how much the puppy will weight as an adult. I do my best to give an estimated adult weight but I can not guarantee a weight. 

They have skipped over multiple litters. They have been offered multiple litter opportunities but have chosen to not pick from the litters. As long as they keep in contact with me they are allowed to stay on the list. Every time they skip they are asked if they would like to be removed from the list. 

Most people I talk to are looking to buy NOW. There are only a few people who are willing to PAY to be on the wait list and wait for a few months to two years to get the puppy/dog they desire. You are more then welcome to wait until I have puppies instead of getting on the wait list. My wait list is a PAID wait list due to, too many people putting there information down and not being serious about purchasing. It was causing me to go threw 15+ people before I would contacted one that was serious. Those who are NOT serious are the ones who will NOT put the money down up front to get on the waitlist. You do NOT have to be on my wait list to get one of my puppies. However you WILL be required to pay the same amount as a deposit to HOLD a puppy. Those already on the waitlist pick the puppy they want and do not have to pay an additional fee. I do NOT hold puppies without a deposit. You are welcomed to wait until the puppy is eight weeks old to pay in full at pick-up but I will not hold the puppy for you without a DEPOSIT! If someone puts a deposit down before you then it will go to them! Puppies are reserved on a first come first serve bases. There are too many people that will ask me to hold and then never show up or pay the deposit this is why I will NOT hold without a deposit. 

Yes, please see the pricing page. Located at the very bottom of the page is my studs available! However my preferred method of breeding is natural. If you want fresh or frozen sperm from one of my males, I will not pay for this service it will be paid for threw you for this type of method.