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I am a mother of 3, wife, and animal lover! I prefer the company of my animals over being with the humans! Humans like to judge you over every little thing. At less my animals love me unconditional. I can be as silly, goofy, real, have outburst(because I AM AN IMPERFECT HUMAN), etc. They may think I am crazy but they will give me kissing and cuddles even threw it ALL! Not to mention there excitement every time they see me; I can't help but smile and laugh! Which is GREAT for those that suffer from anxiety, depression, trauma, etc. Animals are therapeutic to me and make SURE I get up every day! They give me the GREATEST reason in the world to keep going one day to the next! If it wouldn't be for them I do not know where I would be today! I am a very passionate person so I can come off really strong. I also tend to overinform, which you will see all over this website! When I got my first dog as a child I wanted to bred her. So I have always had an interest in breeding dogs. I can not explain how or why. My first dog wasn't even allowed in the house because of my parents and I had no intention on "selling" puppies. It has just been something that I have always been interested in! I ended up falling in love with a Toy Poodles when I was a teen. I had a few friends that had them and they were the perfect lap dog, cuddly, sweet, etc. A Toy Poodle was the very first dog I owned on my own. I started back-yard breeding them in 2016. By 2020 is when I really started to get into it. That's when I went all in and strived to be the best breeder that I could be! I do not have a mentor but I wish I did! It is hard to find someone that is willing to teach you! They are afraid you will take away from there profit so they brush you off. I strive to learn new things about the breed(Poodles), health test, coat color genetics, nutrition, and much more everyday. Everyday I work on researching new health discovery, new color genetics discovery, best nutritional options for puppies and adults, etc. I am a small breeder. I breed to produce the puppies/dogs that I fell in love with long ago and to create a better pet quality puppy/dog for you! I breed for myself first and for most! I love the genetics that goes into the coat patterns for dogs. I am a CKC preferred breeder and AKC bred of heart! I do not guarantee any puppy/dog to be ANYTHING other than PET QUALITY! My goal is to produce a happy, healthy life long fur baby for you! I don't breed my dogs to win dog shows, I'm not selling a product, I'm just trying to maintain this perfect breed. And be the best PET you could ask for. If I have way too many puppies that are not selling then I am not going to continue to breed, just because another girl has come into heat. I will NOT continue to produce puppies if I have an over supply of them already. This is why I like to space my litters out and not have them on top of each other. I do not intend on becoming a large scale breeder as I want to make sure I can handle all of my dogs myself without any help. It also takes a lot of time to make sure that everyone is well cared for and gets attention. My goal is to make sure that every dog/puppy has attention and is well cared for. I do have a wait list that if you are WILLING to wait for MY puppies/dogs, I will contact you in the order in which I have received them. I am now also offering payments on a puppy can be made in advance of birth or pick-up; EVERYTHING but the DEPOSIT cost IS FULLY REFUNDABLE! I can not GUARANTEE that any puppy before birth would be a certain color or gender. I also do not GUARANTEE a puppies weight, size, temperament, or training ability. I ONLY produce PET QUALITY MINIATURE/TOY POODLES! I do not bred designer breeds or "mutts." I do not believe in this practice, even on registration paperwork is says MIXED BREED NOT PUREBRED! I stick TRUE to my PUREBREDS and WILL NOT/HAVE NOT bred anything but a PUREBRED!
All breeding pairs are carefully sectioned to ether
A. Improve health results
B. Continue a bloodline of good personality traits/confirmation
C. Produce a certain color dog such as a Phantom or sable
D. To see if I can throw off a new color such as a brindle or silver (untestable gene)
Pedigree colors only go so far, just because there is blue on the linage does NOT mean some puppies will be blue. Colors are bases upon the genetic make up of both mom and dad. Pedigrees also have colors that are recorded wrong; such as an apricot as a red or a red as an apricot; not to the fault of the registry but the fault of the register. I own all parents, they are on site at all times! They stay in home with me! Parents and there offspring are beloved pets, they are NOT just used for breeding purposes! Our dogs/animals are such a HUGE part of our lives and I always consider the care of my animals as if they were my children(because they are)! All of my adults and puppies have CKC or AKC or CKC and AKC registration paperwork and I also have pedigrees on the adults to show there bloodline. I also DNA and HEALTH test all adults and puppies from litters; the test shows inbreeding results, coat color, genetic ancestry results, and health screening for over 250+ genetic diseases. ALL my AKC dogs(adults/parents) will also have OFA certifications(pra-prcd, CRAE eye, patella, osteochondrodysplasia, and hip/elbow[miniature ONLY for hips/elbow and osteochondrodysplasia]) and DNA #. CKC dogs(adults/parents) will have patella checks and DNA and health testing(EMBARK) ONLY! Every Poodle has a different personality. Some of them can be needy, some can be yappy, while others can be easy going and quiet. Every dog differs in there temperament and I do not know how a puppies temperament will be. I can sometimes get a drift of it once they get older around six weeks but I don't always know for sure. I now have tools from Embark to use to determine the best pairs in regards to health and inbreeding/ line breeding. That being said inbreeding/line breeding is not always a bad thing. It can be done carefully from experienced breeder, studied pedigrees, and resources(like Embark). I do sometimes line breed to keep certain traits in the blood line. Line breeding is the practice of mating a dog to a member of an earlier generation of the dog's bloodline such as a grandsire to a granddaughter, or an uncle to a niece. I do my best to avoid inbreeding. Inbreeding is the mating of two closely related dogs of the same breed such as a father to a daughter, brother to sister, mother to son, etc. If I can find the traits I'm looking for in an outcross then that is always my first route. Outcross is the mating of two unrelated dogs of the same breed. I have many outcrosses available in my program and if it ever starts to get to close to linebreeding or inbreeding then I will get rid of some of them and replace them with new outcrosses. I believe in naturally producing, if they can't produce on there own, they aren't good breeding dogs and I won't use them. I only bred PUREBRED dogs, with a PUREBRED status! I do not breed anything but a PUREBRED! It is important to me to protect the breed (POODLES) from becoming a MIXED BREED or what are called designer breeds. Owning a puppy/dog is a HUGE responsibility and is not for the FATE OF HEART!! Every dog/puppy deserves the best possible care from new owners. If a new owner finds themselves unable to do this any longer, please contact me, I will help you find the puppy/dog a new owner or explorer options for you to get them the care they deserves.
It is important to me that my puppies go to good loving homes! I send weekly updates to those who put deposits down on a puppy as well as answer ANY and ALL question new owner may have anytime! Weekly updates can include pictures, videos, weigh, vet visits, deworming schedule, etc. I also love to get updates and keep in touch with new owners! I provide life long assistance to new owners and take back ANY and ALL puppies that I’ve sold to you(NO REFUNDS for your purchase) if you no longer want or can provide for it. YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO BUY AND SELL A PUPPY FROM ME; IF YOU NO LONGER WANT THEM THEY MUST BE RETURNED TO ME(NO REFUNDS)!! My puppies also come with a 2 year health guarantee, where if found to have a life threatening disease within two years of your purchase date you have the option to return the puppy and receive a replacement puppy. My litters vary in weights from 3-20lbs, depending on the mom and dad of the litter. They also vary in height from 7-15", depending on the mom and dad of litter. MOST of my puppies are sold with a spay/neuter contract and there paperwork is limited and withheld till proof of spay/neuter. If you do not agree with my practices and want to be able to do "whatever you want with your puppy" then I am NOT your breeder. These are MY puppies and I have no issue/problem keeping MY puppies! It is NOT about the sale to me! My puppies are raised in home with children and many other play mates(including cats and big dogs,etc.)! They come well-socialized with, accustom to many different noises in everyday life, and spoiled! I also start kennel and puppy pad training the puppies. ALL puppies come up-to-date on shots, de-wormed every 2 weeks till they leave me, and will receive varies wellness checks, micro-chipped, knee(patella) provisional result, tails clipped, dew-claw removed, and heart-worm and flea prevention before going home; all been done by a licensed vet! I also perform ENS( Early Neurological Stimulation) everyday from day 3 to day 16. CKC per-printed puppy registration paperwork and/or AKC dog pre-registration application is provided as well. AKC puppies will only have a AKC DNA #, if testing from Embark comes back and qualifies them as a breeder to me. If buying as a pet your paperwork will be limited and you must sign a spay/neuter(fix) agreement. Keep in mind that when buying from a rescue or shelter they are fixed. DNA and HEALTH results for YOUR PUPPY will be provided as well! And all puppies have a puppy collar on that is provided, come with starter puppy food, leash, a blanket, treats, and a toy! Dogs are PACK animals what that means is that they look to the pack leader for leadership, structure, and protection. Dogs need rules, exercise, education, a balanced diet, shelter, and companionship to make them feel happy and secure. No other creature will admire you the way they will, so be fair, be firm, correct them when necessary, forgive rapidly, and love well. Be there pack leader! Before getting a puppy please do research on the breed first! I have all the information available on the link below!
At my home me, my husband, and our kids do everything for the dogs, shaving, cleaning, baths, food, water, etc(mostly ME). I do not do shots, tails, or declaw myself, I get a LICENSED vet to preform these things. My adults, puppies, and any other animal I own is fecal checked regularly, annuals always up-to-date(shots), as well as never miss a dose of there heartworm and flea meds, even the ones that are NOT used for breeding purposes. I do not use outside studs or females for my program because this makes things unpredictable. What that means is that an outside male may not be appealing to my female so she may reject him. And the same thing may happen if I bring in an outside female to one of my males; she may reject him. This also means that I do not know the other dogs personality. When females are in heat there personality can change as well as the males that are around her. Leading to unpredictable personality traits of the puppies. I do not have kennels outside for my dogs. They do have wire/metal kennels in my home that they sleep in at night and stay in during the day(depending on weather outside). There kennel has a flat plastic bottom that is covered with blankets and/or plush matting. I am not one to sleep with animals as I like my own person space and my husband and son are allergic to dogs. So I try to keep them out of there main spaces. My animals are not allowed to roam the house freely. This keeps them safe from getting into anything that they shouldn't! This is just a personal preference for me and in no way reflects how much I (or anyone else for that matter) loves there animals(to each there own). A kennel is there own personal den and is NOT a jail! It is a GREAT training source! Most of them prefer to go straight to there kennel anyway and sleep there even if the cage is open they will still be in there! Also due to the allergies, I have stopped letting them roam all together in the house! My sons allergies were so bad when they were allowed to roam that it has caused him to go into the hospital many times because he was not able to breathe! He would have to stay for 3-5 days each time just to get him somewhat back to normal! By me keeping them in certain areas I have been able to manage his allergic reactions 10 times better. I love my animals to death and I also love my son, therefore I did not just get rid of them because of it! I hope you understand that if I don't keep them just in certain areas things get really bad for him! Nevertheless he still loves the puppies even though he knows he shouldn't be around them! Yes poodles are hypoallergic, which does help it not be as bad but that still does not make him not allergic to them! They are ether locked up in there kennels inside or allowed to roam around freely outside in the back yard. I also keep them shaved down because of the allergies. This keeps dander to a minimum; thick long fur holds dander. You can choose to groom your poodle however you like once you get them, however here crew cuts are what are most appropriate for our household. They love to go/be outside when the weather is nice out! They're raised with us. Puppies will learn how to behave when they get to your house! Adult dogs have blankets and chew toys in there cages for comfort and play and rarely ever have accidents in there cages, as there is no need to because they are let in and out multiple times a day. Of course sometimes someone has an accident because they are having "bathroom issues". They normally let me know when they need to go out so that I can let them out so they do not have to go in there cage, even at 2am in the morning! I get up and go let them out! When it does happen in there kennel there blankets are immediate removed, the area whipped and cleaned, and then new blankets are put in. There blankets are washed/replaced regularly as well as the plastic bottom cleaned of any dirt. A lot of times when they come in for the night they are given treats. They are fed outside besides for pregnant or nursing mothers and puppies. Water bowls are filled and cleaned every day this also takes place outside some of my dogs are really messy with the water(they will play in it). You won't find any green algae/muddy/bugs(lava) in drinking water here or any Moldy/buggy food! They are in a completed fenced yard. There poo is picked up out the yard twice a day, sometimes three times a day, so that there is not poo everywhere and to help keep worms/parasites under control! They also have lots of outside toys to chew on and play with. As well as lots of dog mats, beds, foam, etc. If it is cold outside they are only let out to go potty and then brought right back in and are allowed to eat and drink inside the house then. I also go out with them multiple times a day to pet/hold/give them attention. I can not go out there and not pet a single one, as I love them all! Their favorite thing is the swimming pool! Poodles are water dogs(retriever dogs) so they love the water and to chase! They have a MULIPLE fans for when its hot out; heater in the winter when it's cold and a large shed as a huge dog house with an a/c unit, a small hand built dog house, and a large hand built dog house made by my husband. A swimming pool with water when its hot so they can cool off if it's cold it is empty with no water! The pool is cleaned regularly and does not have any added chemicals! They are shaved on a 6-12 week schedule depending on the dog. Some of them are on a STRICK 6 week grooming, while others can go a few more weeks without a issue. It really all depends on there coat. Boys and girls go out together when girls are not in heat. When a girl is in heat they are let out separately. When I plan on breeding a girl they are let out with the one I plan on mating and monitored after mating has been completed they are separated again for the next day/two days then put back together for additional mates until the female will no longer accept him. I also have children who range in age between 4-14. So puppies/dogs are socialized everyday by myself , my kids, and other animals. Any dog/cat not used for breeding is fixed in my house. When females are close to giving birth I will sleep in the whelping area with them or bring them into my bedroom to be there in case any issues may arise. I have talked to my vet about x-rays and ultrasounds and there is no reason for x-rays or ultrasounds. As most of the time deliveries go on without a hitch, occasionally a mother will need a bit of assists. These are ANIMALS not HUMANS! There is NO medical reason to do x-rays or ultra sounds on an animal that is pregnant(this is just a new thing for the "fancy")! Rarely do my females need to have a c section. I have been breeding for 8+ years now and only had 1 c section happen and that was because the female was just to small to pass her babies threw the birth canal. She was then spayed and removed from my program. Puppies here are not started weaning until around 4/6 weeks depending on the mom and puppies. I believe the longer they stay with mom and mom allows the better for the puppy. I believe MOTHERS MILK is the best!! As long as mom is willing to care and nurse her puppies she is allowed to feed them! I work with puppies and adults everyday to ensure they get the care, love, and attention they deserve. They get lots of cuddles and kisses! I even carry them around the house with me sometimes when I'm doing everyday chores or just to go relax.
I think this section is the most IMPORTANT to read to know the difference between a GOOD breeder and a bad "backyard" breeder, puppy mills, and pet store puppies. A good breeder has lots of information on there website, can be found on other sites such as google, yelp,(other than social media; facebook, twitter, etc.) even threw there registry(CKC, AKC, ETC.), they have reviews. A bad breeder will have a SIMPLE site(if any at ALL) advising there dogs/puppies(most likely OUT OF DATE), will use facebook, twitter, etc. as there MAIN form of SELLING/REVIEWS. SOCIAL MEDIA "BREEDERS" OR NOT GOOD BREEDERS THEY ARE NORMALLY PUPPY MILLS, OR BAD" BACKYARD" BREEDERS TRYING TO MAKE MONEY!! A good breeder has contracts for there puppies some are a year, some two years, and some are a LIFETIME; each breeder sets there own limits. A bad breeder will have ZERO contracts as its "too much work" but also BEWARE some bad breeders will have these contracts to give you the impression that they are a "good" breeder. A good breeder will have there puppies shots given by a LICENSE vet, while a bad breeder will do it themselves to "save money." If a puppy is NOT checked by a LICENSED vet you truly don't if they have ANY health issues such as a heart defect, under or over bite, hernia, etc. that can ONLY be IDENTIFIED by a VET! And if the vet does find anything wrong the breeder discloses that information to the buyer! A bad breeder will omit any bad findings! A good breeder micro chips ALL of there animals including PUPPIES before going home to insure that NONE of there puppies/dogs end up in a shelter! A bad breeder will do the bare minimum this means no micro chip or will charge you an extra fee to micro chip the puppy for you, most likely not VET checked, among many other things and will charge you more to make AS MUCH MONEY AS POSSIBLE doing the BARE MINIMUM for there pups! Most bad breeder puppies are FULL of worms even though they say that they "de-wormed" them. Where a good breeder will have there puppies fecal tested and dewormed again right before going home! Sometimes there can be a break threw of worms with even a good breeder, this does not mean that they are bad! Worms happen! But by fecal testing them they can/will get rid of them before the puppy is even ready to go home and will disclose this information to the buyer! Omitting a worm break threw is NOT being honest and transparent to the buyer! A good breeder will have there adults and puppies HEALTH and DNA tested to PROVE that they are really the breed you are buying and also to show health issues(if ANY). A bad breeder will ONLY have REGISTRATION paperwork and NO HEALTH TEST. Registration paper work DOES NOT prove that the dog is healthy! Health test help set up life long health for the puppies. Without these health test you truly don't know what under laying health issues may pop up later in life! You also don't know rather a dog is a carrier for a certain disease or not without these test. Without knowing health test results and breeding two dogs together could create seriously health problems for the puppies such as blindness by the age of 2, among many other life long issues! Ask for testing of the parents, ask if they test the puppies as well! You will find that MOST breeders will have the parents tested but not the puppies! Ask if the parents have OFA certifications! This is also an important health testing resource! "Breeders" will throw around bloodlines like they mean something. Something like champion bloodline or Idaho jewels bloodline. Just because one or two dogs in the bloodline where champions does NOT mean that the puppy is/will be, or that mom and/or dad where/are! Now if they say show champion parents then that means something! Grandparents are anything/anyone further in the line having champion means NOTHING! Touching on Idaho Jewels bloodline, this is just a kennel name Idaho Jewels is a well known kennel that has been breeding poodles for many years. This in NO way shows or proves anything about the dogs/puppies besides for the kennel/place they have come from. This is a marketing gimmicks used in order to say why there pricing is so "high." True high pricing is valued on the parents being champions NOT anything or ANYONE else in the bloodline! Another marketing gimmick "breeders" will use is the term "tiny toy", "teacup toy", or "royal standard", most recently "moyen." This is also a marketing gimmick used to ether market up the price or make a sell of a puppy/dog ether under or over the normal size of poodles. Poodles come in ONLY THREE sizes: Toy is under 10" tall, miniature is over 10" tall but under 15", and the standard is stands over 15" tall. Using ANY other term is INCORRECT! A good breeder will also parentage there puppies to prove who mom and dad are. A bad breeder will likely have dad DNA tested but not moms. Do you know how many breeders put a different mom on the paperwork just so that they can register? A good breeder will LOVE to answer ANY and ALL of your questions without having to think or research into what you are asking them; while a bad breeder will get ANNOYED with your questions and just want you to "buy the puppy" or will give you FALSE information such as ALL my dogs have a three/four generation when they really don't! A good breeder will care about the LONG term care of the puppy and becomes a LIFELONG partner to you and your puppy; while a bad breeder will cut ANY and ALL ties after the sale is final or might keep in touch with you for a few months after the sale and then will not respond back to you again! Just because a breeder has a USDA license or says that they are AKC inspected ONLY means that they are providing food, water, and a place for them to stay. A place for them to stay can include in runs outside and in cages as long as they have the room to move around, have food and water then this is ACCEPTABLE and approvable! A good breeder sales a certain breed to BETTER the breed; while a bad breeder is ONLY in it for the MONEY! Good breeders are not in it for the MONEY they are in it for the BREED/DOGS! Good breeders loss money rather than make anything off of there puppies/dogs. ALL there money goes right back into there program not in there POCKETS! A good breeder sticks to ONE or TWO breeds while a bad breeder will sell MULIPLE different breeds including "designer." Good breeders allow you to visit and have no issue of you coming visit and encourage it. Good breeders always have at less mom on site at all times. Some will have dad on site as well. Watch out for ones that have the puppies but NOT the parents or say they are in a guardian home. Guardian homes are not a bad thing but if the breeder is advertising a puppy that is NOT on site and does NOT disclose this information that is a HUGE red flag! A good breeder has a spay/neuter contract in place at the time of sale for PET only homes to insure that they don't breed as well as LIMITED registration paperwork. A bad breeder will NOT care about this and will sale to you regardless if breeding or buying as a pet. (Please keep in mind, even when buying from your LOCAL shelter these animals are spay/neuter before being allowed to go home with you.) A good breeder keeps puppies until they are FULLY weaned and ready to go on the puppies OWN terms! A bad breeder will FORCE the puppy to wean EARLIER to "make the sale as soon as possible." This means that the puppies are not placed into new homes until 8-12 weeks old. Anyone selling puppies ready to go at 6 weeks old; run from! Do not buy these puppies! MOST states have a age limit(8 weeks) that puppy/kittens can be sold! A bad breeder will claim that they "care" about the puppies health but they REALLY don't! ALL A BAD BREEDER CARES ABOUT IS MONEY!!! A good breeder knows what colors there dogs can create and also what to call them as well as what size to call them! I have heard so many Poodle breeders call there dog/puppies a blue merle or even a blue. These are all INCORRECT terms! I also have brought puppies being told that they were a TOY and as they got older turned out the be a STANDARD! These breeders clearly have not done there research, education, or testing on there dog or puppies! A good breeder can also tell you about the mother and father personality. How they act, what is there favorite thing to do, etc. Do they like treats or are they one of the ones that aren't treat motivated. They can even tell you there bark and what it sounds like even what each bark means(ex. someone it here or I want something from you, etc.). Good breeders invite you to come visit there place while a bad one will do whatever means possible to stop you from seeing it. Good breeders set there prices based on the cost of raising the litter. Bad breeders out to make money set there prices based on the gender, color, and size. Good breeders stick to there price(s). While a bad breeder will lower the price to make the quick sale.
Backyard breeders are motivated by money. A back yard breeder is anyone who is probably driven by an emotional attachment to their animals or for profiting on the offspring, or both, rather than bettering the breed. They are an unprepared, uninformed person who decided to give breeding a try and then is surprised to find there’s no demand for carelessly bred pups, especially at high prices. While I do agree with the notion that most back yard breeders will find quickly that breeding dogs is a lot harder and more expensive than they originally anticipated, I also know that breeders all have to get their start somewhere. If you are looking for a good family pet and your neighbor is raising yorkshire terriers that are a little wirey and too long legged, you aren’t really hurting anyone or anything by purchasing one of those puppies. And it’s certainly a better choice than buying a dog from a pet store or flea market, where chances are high you are supporting a puppy mill! On the other hand, buyers beware! There’s probably no health guarantee and did the back yard breeder even bother to test for genetic defects to ensure HEALTH! Backyard breeders may appear to be the nice neighbor next door-in fact, even seemingly good-intentioned breeders may treat their breeding pairs as family pets. Some backyard breeders may only breed their family dog once in awhile, but they often are not knowledgeable on how to breed responsibly, such as screening for genetic defects. Responsible, proper breeding entails much more than simply putting two dogs together!
PUPPY MILLS produces in the NUMBERS and there puppies are normally under socialized!!!! Puppy mills ALWAYS have puppies for sale no matter the day or time! They will have puppies that have not sold from 6 months yet continue to bred even though there last litter(s) have not SOLD! A puppy mill is a "factory farm" for dogs, where profit takes priority over the health, comfort and welfare of the dogs. In puppy mills, dogs live in small cages, often in the minimum legal size allowed (only six inches larger than the dog on all sides) and female dogs are bred constantly, in order to produce as many puppies as possible for the retail pet trade. It’s standard practice for puppy mills to keep animals in cramped, crude, and filthy conditions without proper veterinary care or socialization. Puppy-mill kennels can consist of anything from small cages made of wood and wire mesh to tractor-trailer cabs or simply chains attached to trees, where mother dogs and puppies spend every day outdoors in the same small patch of dirt in all types of weather. Female dogs are bred over and over until they can no longer produce puppies—at which point they are auctioned off or killed. Mothers and their litters often suffer from malnutrition, exposure, and a lack of adequate veterinary care. Undercover investigations of puppy mills have revealed that dogs often had no bedding or protection from the cold or heat and no regular veterinary care even when they were ill. Health conditions such as crusty, oozing eyes, raging ear infections, mange that turned their skin into a mass of red scabs, and abscessed feet from the unforgiving wire floors all were ignored or inadequately treated. Investigators have observed dogs circling frantically in their small cages and pacing ceaselessly back and forth, oblivious to anything around them—their only way of coping with despair.
Pet Store such as Pet smart and Petco work with your local animal shelter to find CATS adoptive homes!!! They sometime also do DOGS at certain times of the years. Any other pet store buys from so called "breeders." Petco and Pet smart NEVER buy from "breeders" they are not allowed to!!! Other pet stores will sale DOGS, CATS, RABBITS, ETC from these "breeders." Pet store DOGS are especially under socialized just like PUPPY MILL puppies. These "breeders" have sold them to the pet stores because they couldn't ether sell them on there own or they no longer wanted to "keep" the puppy past a certain age so they just "threw them away." These pet stores also market-up your cost to purchase the puppy! So, if they brought the dog from the "breeder" and paid $1,000 your cost could be $2,000 at the pet store! Pet stores will also charge more for a litter of puppies if ONE or more of the puppies from the same litter DIES before getting sold!! So that means that $2,000 puppy is now $4,000 because it's litter mate died! PLEASE DO NOT!!!! I AM BEGGING YOU DO NOT BY ANY MEANS BUY FROM A PET STORE EVER!!!! You would be better off buying from a back yard breeder!!! Pet Store will offer financing. I personally do not feel this is a good thing! Why put yourself in 2k of debt, 4k after added fees and interest total payments when you simply could buy cheaper at a local rescue or shelter. Are you can save for the breeder that you truly want to buy from. For example let's say a puppy is 2k and you want to buy in the next year, that means each month you will have to save $167, if you want it sooner lets say 6 months you will have to save $334 each month, but lets say none of this numbers work for you lets do 2 years $84 each month. The BIGGEST take away here is that if you can not afford it then you shouldn't buy it!
Another thing is DO NOT EVER BUY PUPPIES/DOGS FROM A FLEA MARKET OR OFF THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY/ROAD! This is NEVER a good sign! These puppies may be REGISTERED! But remember being registered does NOT mean anything! You need to see the parents, you need to see how they were/are raised, you need to see parent health testing, you need to see puppy health testing, you need to see puppy vet records, etc! SELLING ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND FLEA MARKETS IS A HUGE RED FLAG!!!
Some people believe that if a puppy is worth a lot of money then they MUST be from a good breeder! This is NOT true! Even bad breeders use high prices! They do this to make profit! Some people also believe that if a puppy is cheap then it MUST have something wrong with it or they are a bad breeder! This is not TRUE ether! The amount that you have to pay for a puppy does NOT tell you anything about rather a breeder is bad or good!
In my OPINION ANY "breeder" who has cages "kennels" lined up outside, uses wire bottom cages, has kennels "cages" stacked on top of each other, someone who always has litters due, someone who always has a dog in heat and is breeding them, someone who lowers the price of the dog/puppy every few weeks or week, someone who has so many dogs that they have to hire help to care for them all, anyone who calls there breeding place a "kennel" or "facility," refers to the puppy as a number and not a name, house smells like dog pee/cat pee, has puppies ALL the time, even someone who has puppies that has NOT sold from 6 months ago yet still is producing more puppies "product" are ALL signs of a puppy mill/ bad breeder to me!
PLEASE BEWARE OF THOSE THAT BUY PUPPIES AND THEN SELL THEM OR "FAKE SELL/POST" TO OTHERS FOR A HIGHER OR LOWER PRICE, THESE PEOPLE OR DOING THIS TO MAKE MONEY AND LOTS OF TIMES YOU NEVER GET THE DOG OR YOU PAY OVERPRICE FOR A DOG/PUPPY THAT TURNS OUT TO BE SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT THAN WHAT YOU THOUGH YOU WHERE BUYING! Another way to tell if you are being spammed or not is the amount of information you are given such as quick/reasonable responds, are they harassing you to buy the puppy(ex. are you going to buy or not? cause I have others waiting...), do they NOT want to send more/different pictures then already supplied, do they NOT want you to come visit/see the puppy, do they not want to face time/video chat, are they ANNOYED with your questions, etc. BEWARE of those saying this happened(daughter died, I have cancer, etc.) so I have to sell these dogs(sad stories) it's a SCAM! Remember before buying/putting a deposit down on a puppy ask LOTS of QUESTIONS request PICTURES, go see the parents and/or puppies, ETC. If this is an ISSUE then they are MOST LIKELY in it for all the wrong reasons(making money) or spamming you! Keep in mind if it doesn't feel right DON'T BUY IT!!!! And more importantly don't just jump to buy the FIRST puppy/dog you see for sale; call around to different places explore your options and prices and go with what feels BEST FOR YOU!!! DO NOT LET SOMEONE FORCE YOU TO BUY A PUPPY/DOG YOU ARE UNSURE ABOUT JUST BECAUSE THEY WANT YOUR MONEY!!! Get to know YOUR breeder before making a purchase! And if you have fallen for any of the "breeders" don't feel bad, it happens. I have fallen into the same traps myself a few times. You just learn from it and make better choices next time! This is why I feel as though this selection is the MOST IMPORTANT thing to read!
Be a responsible, informed consumer- buy from a breeder who: Will show you where the dogs spend their time and introduces you to the puppy’s parents. Explains the puppy’s medical history, including vaccines, and gives you their veterinarian’s contact info. Doesn’t have puppies available year-round, yet may keep a waiting list for interested people. And doesn’t use pressure sales tactics.
I am ALWAYS here to ANSWER ANY questions you may have about the breed and other breeders to the best of my knowledge. I get calls all the time, and people are asking if I know another breeder or if I know where they can find one! I am ALWAYS here to HELP and educate you on BREEDERS, BREEDING, and the BREED!! Please DO NOT hesitate to reach out! I am eager, willing, and ready to share ALL the information I know! I DO NOT DISCRIMINATE, I just want to make sure that you're going to do right! There are a TON of breeders out there that cause finding a good breeder hard to trust/find. In order to help alleviate some of that, it is MY responsibility to educate ANYONE who plans on breeding!
Dens; In my kitchen right next to the back door/main door.
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